DuraCoat Steps

I wanted to give you some of the basics of DuraCoat. It’s an involved process so I’m going to give you the bare bones basics.

The first thing to consider is what type of gun you have. If you are doing an AR-15 your “prep” work is less involved than many other firearms. The difference is the aluminum receivers and other parts. These are all anodized and receive much of their strength from that finish. It is extremely hard stuff. Therefore, never grit blast the anodizing off or you will compromise the strength of the receivers.

If you have an all steel gun we still have a couple things to consider. It all comes down to weather or not the gun is parkerized or not. Parkerizing and anodizing both are perfect base layers for DuraCoat so you want to keep both of them. If your steel gun is blued you will need to grit blast the old finish off. What you are looking for is a matte finish by media blasting or other finish (i.e. parkerizing). If you have a polished finish the DuraCoat has nothing to stick to and all your work is doomed to failure. Also,be sure before blasting that you plug both ends of the barrel. We don’t want to have a matte bore. Blue painters tape works well for this.

Once you have media blasted your firearm it should look like this rifle. All traces of the old finished removed and only bare metal left.

For the next several steps you want to have it hung where you will be coating it. From this point on never, never, never touch it with your bare hands. Doing so will transfer oils from your hands to the firearm and may compromise the finish in that spot. Always wear latex gloves anytime you need to handle the firearm until the project is finished.

Once every grain of your blasting media is cleaned from the gun (an air hose works well) you are ready for the next step in the preparation process. It’s time to degrease. You may do this with DuraCoat Reducer and a rag but there is a much more efficient way of doing it. While still hung up use what ever you have for a sprayer to hose down the firearm. There are other things you can use to degrease but DuraCoat Reducer is specially formulated to work with the coating. Anything else could also compromise the finish and allow it to chip, peal, and otherwise come off.

Depending on how long the bare metal has set out before finishing (this one over night) the DuraCoat Reducer may discolor the metal. This isn't a problem. It's still clean and ready to be finished.

 You are now ready to coat the firearm. I suggest using an airbrush or HVLP sprayer. You want to use light even spray across one direction and then the other. You may need to do a couple passes to get a good coat and that’s OK. It’s much better than getting too much in one area and having it run. I can talk about the coating process all day long but only experience will get you doing it right. That being said I will leave you with finished pictures of the pieces above with only this more to say, it is an involved process and any mistake can compromise the finish so try it at your own risk. I would still suggest taking it to someone qualified to do the job and make sure that person knows he needs to do the clear coat for added protection.



6 thoughts on “DuraCoat Steps

  1. I have been quite impressed with your Duracoating and would love to send a gun to you to be done. I sent off one of those contact us messages on the FBMG web site but have yet to hear back. I would like to know first how durable the finish is and how it compares to thermally cured Teflon/Moly coatings and Epoxy Ester coatings. Second if I do decided to send in my pistol to be Duracoated how do I go about doing so. For the record I live in Arizona and the pistol in question is a Sig P225.

  2. First off thanks for your interest in our coating services. I’m sorry the owners haven’t gotten back to you from your inquiry but I would be happy to answer your questions here. There are a lot of great coatings out there and I’ve worked with some of them. Teflon/moly coatings are good but you have to be very carefull of the curing temperatures. A few minutes too long or a few decrees too much heat and the finish is brittle and will chip along the harder edges. DuraCoat is the same principle as Epoxy Ester. DuraCoat comes in two parts the color and a hardener. I have seen our coatings take a fair amount of punishment without coming off. The rifle at the top of the blog is one of the rifles the owner takes to his sniper matches. He considers his rifles a working gun not a pretty gun and treats them as such. So far the finish is holding remarkable well. I always use the clear coat on top as an extra protectant and wouldn’t do a finish without it. The clear coat really helps the durability quite a bit.
    To get it to us you would need to send it over night shipping. Since you would be sending it yourself we can also over night it back to your address. No extra forms needed since you already own the weapon.
    Hope to hear from you soon.

    1. Gun doctor, So if i have a gun that is already parkerized i dont need to do any sanding at all before applying the duracoat? Or would some light sanding be needed?

      1. NO, NO, NO! Parkerizing is the perfect surface. Besides you need a rough surface for the duracoat to cling to. You’re just risking your end result by sanding. Degrease it extreemly well with the duracoat reducer and coat it. Don’t forget that the clear coat is half the strength and most of its resistance to wear. Just don’t mess with the parkerizing.

  3. Hello,
    Just wanted to introduce myself.. Im Sean… glad to be here! Does anyone have any recommendations / advice on using this site?

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